Can I Add Tin To Silver Solder To Repair A Small Locomotive Engine

Brian John	xiii/06/2016 01:54:46
1484 forum posts 582 photos	I did non think information technology was possible to solder cast iron but this solder from Micro-Mark claims to be able to do that. It looks like it cannot be posted outside the US. Has anybody tried this product or something similar ? LINK Edited By Brian John on 13/06/2016 01:57:53
Peter Krogh	xiii/06/2016 02:00:03
220 forum posts 20 photos	That'southward a low temp (430*F) 95% tin, v% silver, solder. It works perfectly on near everything including stainless steel. Just non aluminum. I've never tried it on cast iron. I suspect that information technology would work well on actually clean cast atomic number 26. I have argent brazed cast iron with EZFlo. The atomic number 26 must exist admittedly make clean. No old, greasy, machine parts. New fe. You should be able to find 95/five under another proper noun somewhere. Information technology's important to utilize the acid flux recommended. Pete Edited By Peter Krogh on 13/06/2016 02:00:50 Edited Past Peter Krogh on 13/06/2016 02:03:xv
JasonB	13/06/2016 07:32:11
Moderator 22222 forum posts 2566 photos 1 articles	I've soldered cast atomic number 26 with Easyflow. Heat first to bring the carbon to the surface, wirebrush and then solder. Last time the subject field came upward I posted this pic of Mike Sawyers Bently engine block which shows what tin can exist washed.
Neil Wyatt	13/06/2016 08:48:22
Moderator 18945 forum posts 734 photos 80 articles	Even I've washed information technology, just make certain you accept fresh, make clean surfaces. Neil
John Fielding	xiii/06/2016 10:45:53
235 forum posts xv photos	Yep-----well covered in the brazing books. The of import matter is to heat the cast iron well higher up the normal brazing temperature to fire off the graphite and and then let it cool. Then wire brush vigorously and use flux. This brings the surface to more like depression carbon steel. Done this lots of times to repair broken castings etc.
Brian John	14/06/2016 09:42:26
1484 forum posts 582 photos	I bought the silver solder and flux kit from Jaycar today but I had no luck with it. The solder just rolled itself into a ball. I accept reread John's post and he said to heat the cast iron well above brazing temperature to burn off the graphite. I did non do that ; I only got it hot and then let information technology cool. I did not read his instructions properly. I will take to practice this again only I will demand the big burner to preheat the cast fe. That means doing it outside if the pelting e'er stops. What sort of pickle should be used for cast atomic number 26 after soldering ? Notation : I do not like wetting cast iron with anything. I remember the concluding time I washed a piece of bandage iron with soapy h2o prior to painting and it went rusty in about ten minutes. I was told to do this by PM Research when I inquired most painting cast iron. Now I never launder information technology with water ; I make clean information technology with meths prior to painting it with a meths based etch primer.
Clive Hartland	14/06/2016 11:31:08
2798 forum posts xl photos	The fact that the solder merely stayed as a ball/globule shows it is not hot plenty, heat the item, and utilise the solder and it should wet and run in direct away. This is a common fault when soldering, not getting information technology hot enough, the metallic should be seen to glow and and then offer the solder to the joint. But of course add flux on the solder rod. Clive Edited Past Clive Hartland on 14/06/2016 11:31:38
speelwerk	fourteen/06/2016 11:52:11
437 forum posts ii photos	The few times I soldered cast fe I sandblasted the workpiece to make clean it. Niko.
Michael Gilligan	14/06/2016 18:38:23
19755 forum posts 1016 photos	Brian, Forgive me for this digression, but your thread seems the most likely place for people to find this information, if they demand it in the time to come. Tidying-up my modest-only-costly collection of Silver Solders, I found a stowaway ... A small coil of Thesscal "A", purchased years ago from K. R. Whiston [United kingdom of great britain and northern ireland readers of a certain age volition remember his 'True cat']. Importantly, the picayune leaflet was also there, albeit barely legible. What follows is a transcript: Thesscal "A" Hard Aluminium Solder Canonical for use in shipping Melting Range 420--450 degrees C All parts to be soldered must exist mechanically make clean. For, Aluminium and its alloys, copper and brass, practice not pre-flux the parts, but when making joints to steel a thin layer of paste flux on the steel surface will preclude oxidisation. Prepared parts held in position should be brought upward to temperature EVENLY with a suitable torch. Heat the solder and dip in flux, use flux on the terminate of solder to joint area (non directly in flame). When flux flows temperature will be well-nigh 400 degrees C. A little more rut and Thesscal "A" volition flow and complete the joint. Allow contact with the joint to cook the solder rather than oestrus from the flame. Afterwards prolonged exposure to a torch flame the flux volition tend to dry up and this prevents the solder "Taking". When joining Aluminium to Stainless Steel it is necessary to use a sparse layer of Silvery Solder to the Stainless Steel starting time, Aluminium Solder adheres to this successfully. Thesscal "A" joints should Not be Anodised. Grand. R. WHISTON, NEW MILLS, Stockport . Unfortunately, I must have already used-upwardly the small packet of flux already. MichaelG. Edited Past Michael Gilligan on 14/06/2016 18:42:55
Brian John	15/06/2016 02:06:09
1484 forum posts 582 photos	Is information technology nonetheless possible to buy aluminium solder/flux ?
Michael Gilligan	fifteen/06/2016 08:06:34
19755 forum posts 1016 photos	For info. I have just found this review of Thesscal "A" past Flight, in 1955 MichaelG.
Ian S C	15/06/2016 10:31:56
7468 forum posts 230 photos	MichaelG, a bit OT, only very interesting, that sort of affair could exist very handy if you stuff up or get a dud aluminium casting, I vaguely remember something like that, I retrieve it was in the form of a bar, not dissimilar plumbers solder sticks. Ian S C
Speedy Builder5	15/06/2016 eleven:08:xix
2541 forum posts 203 photos	Grand.R.Whiston New Mills, Stockport. What a marvellous visitor that was. Whatsoever happened to them? BobH
Michael Gilligan	15/06/2016 11:13:38
19755 forum posts 1016 photos	Posted by Speedy Builder5 on fifteen/06/2016 11:08:nineteen: K.R.Whiston New Mills, Stockport. What a marvellous company that was. Whatever happened to them? BobH . Regrettably, the identify is now a Plumbers Merchant We moved to the area in 1988, and Ken Whiston retired shortly thereafter ... I don't think information technology was cause & outcome just you lot never can tell. MichaelG.
Roderick Jenkins	15/06/2016 xi:38:49
2145 forum posts 592 photos	Posted by Ian S C on 15/06/2016 10:31:56: MichaelG, a bit OT, merely very interesting, that sort of thing could be very handy if you lot stuff up or go a dud aluminium casting, I vaguely call back something like that, I think it was in the course of a bar, non unlike plumbers solder sticks. Ian S C been there, done that This stuff seems to be a more than modern version. I did little experimantation, reported here Cheers, Rod
mechman48	15/06/2016 12:26:07
2946 forum posts 466 photos	Posted past Roderick Jenkins on 15/06/2016 11:38:49: Posted by Ian S C on fifteen/06/2016 10:31:56: MichaelG, a bit OT, just very interesting, that sort of matter could be very handy if you lot stuff up or get a dud aluminium casting, I vaguely retrieve something like that, I retrieve it was in the form of a bar, not different plumbers solder sticks. Ian S C been in that location, done that This stuff seems to be a more modern version. I did footling experimantation, reported here Cheers, Rod Rod, Check your pc; clicked on the link above... my AV came upward with ' antivirus prevented a harmful file downloading'... ? George.
Roderick Jenkins	15/06/2016 xiii:fifty:00
2145 forum posts 592 photos	How-do-you-do George, AVG hasn't thrown up any problems on my machine. I'chiliad don't understand why you would think that links to external websites via this website would be an result with my PC . It seems more likely that your PC is unhappy with something on the target website. I don't go whatever warnings accessing the links from my Android tablet either. Cheers, Rod
Keith Hale	15/06/2016 xv:26:25
332 forum posts 1 photos	Silver soldering of cast iron is sraightforward in one case the surfaces are make clean and complimentary of carbon/graphite. Silver solder will non wet onto carbon. The best jigs are carbon. Get rid of the surface carbon by using the oxidizing part of the flame. That's the bit outside the bluish zone of your flame. Heat to red and hold for a couple om minutes. Let to absurd naturally in air and and so clean with a stiff wire castor. Utilize a long life flux eg HT5. Reheat. When the flux melts and flows apply the alloy. Soldering aluminium is likewise straightforward. Any soft solder tin exist used, but,as higher up,. success depends on getting the surfaces lean. Proprietary fluxes are readily available. Your blend selection will be based on price (?), colour match (?) melting range (?) For more than info come across "Best Brazing Practise" and "FAQ" hither. LINK Keith
Neil Wyatt	15/06/2016 fifteen:35:00
Moderator 18945 forum posts 734 photos lxxx articles	I found Alutite quite easy to apply and it doesn't crave a flux, just gentle stirring & scratching with a steel wire. 60/40 solder will take on aluminium, apply oil over the area to be soldered and again utilize a steel wire or even a screwdriver to scratch the area. Neil
Speedy Builder5	15/06/2016 16:26:26
2541 forum posts 203 photos	Would SIF Statuary be every bit adept or stronger than using silver solder, and would the same techniques apply - Ie heat up and scratch off the carbon before brazing? BobH